Jan 192014
 
I've removed the cab and short hood section in preparation for attaching the blank hood and high nose.

I’ve removed the cab and short hood section in preparation for attaching the blank hood and high nose.

So, this is going to be my first attempt at a B30-7A.  It has been a long time since I’ve worked on any GE power in my shop.  But GE power was still relevant in the era of BN which I model.    I’m going to do an early B30-7A, the easy version.

The later one requires building a doghouse for the dynamic brakes on the roof of the long hood.

I have started with an Atlas Silver Series B23-7 I got off ebay, which someone so kindly undecorated for me.

Here’s my start.

  5 Responses to “HO Scale Burlington Northern B30-7A Build – Part 1”

  1. I’ve just started the same project, except I’m using a cheapo Bachmann B23-7/B30-7 as the basis. It’s not quite correct, but this model will be a stand-in anyway. And my first real attempt at such a project.

    Are you scratch-building the high short hood and blank hood section or using parts?

    I’d love to see pictures of parts if you’re using them and have them.

    Cheers,

    Colin

    PS I run a group on Facebook called Burlington Northern Modelers. We’d love to have you join us — if you haven’t already!

    • Hi Collin, I’m going to use the Smokey Valley B unit and high hood kits. I bought these before Atlas released the high nose version, so I had the flexibility to choose a unit that wasn’t already high hood. Thanks for the tip on the facebook group. I’ll look it up.

  2. I have the Smokey valley kit. My question is, I purchased an Atlas b23-7 gold series high hood unit on eBay… My plan was to use only the panels between the nose and original hood. But I’ve been reading that the kit may not be wide enough for the atlas body. Any thoughts or experiences with this issue?

    • Hi Rich, I’ve yet to complete my project, but the Smokey Valley part seems fine as far as I’ve gone – width wise. What you might have heard was that the Smokey Valley parts won’t work on old Athearn U-boat shells. Or someone was just confused. Obviously, there is still some required cutting on the atlas shell. I’m finding that I should have started with a high hood like you did because the SV nose kit doesn’t line up very well with the Atlas cab base and running board. I’ll try to get pics up sometime, but at the moment my project is stalled for this reason and a number of ‘external’ factors.

  3. I’ve seen a few other modelers doing this conversion and I did notice that they all seem to have needed a thin shim (.005-.010) under the nose to level it up and place it in the right spot. That was why I chose the factory high hood, to eliminate that problem. Please post any pics you can, I’m always interested to see how others are tackling this model. Everyone has their own ideas and methods. Thanks for your input.

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